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What do you do if the Lincoln SA200 Continental F engine won't start?

Finally clear crisp information that you can use to troubleshoot, repair, maintain, and upgrade your SA-200-F162, SA-200 F163, and SA250-163 Welders.

“I am, as I've said, merely competent. But in an age of incompetence, that makes me extraordinary.”

Billy Joel

YOUR ENGINE WON’T START-DOWN AND DIRTY QUICK TROUBLESHOOTING YOU CAN DO IN THE FIELD.

-TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE-

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                                  Engine Won’t Start? Start Here.

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Step 1: Do You Have Fuel and Spark?

For the engine to run, you must have good fuel and a proper ignition spark.

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                                                     Step 2: Check the Battery

Before we begin, you need a good, hot battery. We'll check the

voltage later; if it spins the engine fast, so much the better.

If you have any doubts about your battery, jump it to another

good one:(positive to positive/negative to negative).

You should have plenty of power for now.

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                                                       QUICK TEST:

  • Turn the ignition switch OFF.

  • Spin the starter for 30 seconds.

  • The starter should not slow down or bog down.

  • Feel the starter — it should be warm, not hot.

      If it’s hot, it’s weak and/or dying. Not enough spin = no start.

 

(The #1 cause of starter failure is weak batteries.)​ 

 REPLACE the starter and probably the battery too.!

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                             Step 3: Cheap and easy ignition check.

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   1. Remove the air cleaner.

   2. Ensure your ignition switch is in the "ON" position.

   3.  Spray a short burst of starter fluid into the carburetor intake. Less is better!

   4. Spin the starter; if the motor "hits" and tries to start. You have a some spark. You              need to address the fuel/carburetor condition.

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                                           GO TO STEP 5

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   5. Check to make sure the fuel is good. From the tank, pour a few drops on the                     cement and light it. If it is good, it flares up and burns for a second.I have seen new         fuel "spoil" in a gas can in 8 weeks. It's the ethanol, it's an oxidizer, and it will                   corrode cast iron or steel. If you have any doubt, drain and clean the fuel tank

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       Step 4: Cheap and Dirty Way to Confirm Good Spark & Simple and Easy

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  1. Remove all your spark plugs.​ (It takes the stress off your starter)

  2. Are they wet or smell like gasoline?If yes, you're getting fuel into the engine.

  3. Clean a spot on the exhaust manifold using a wire brush to make a shiny metal surface.

  4. Lay the plugs in the order you removed them so that you can replace them correctly.

  5. Insert a #6 Phillips screwdriver into each spark plug wire — one at a time.

  6. Have someone spin the engine while you hold the screwdriver shaft near the cleaned spot on the manifold.

    • You should see a bright blue spark (not white, yellow, or green) jump to the metal, with a sharp popping sound.

  7. No spark or weak spark?You have a failure. Stop here until you fix your ignition problem.

                         If you have a magneto, have it serviced or replaced

  â€‹Plug wires—if they are corroded, replace them; your time is more valuable.​

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​          Pertronic distributors:               Cheap and easy tests.

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   a) attach a jumper wire, normally test wire with alligator clips

on each end from the alternator (+) lead, normally attached to the

large battery wire on the starter solenoid, to the (+) terminal

on the distributor coil. The electronic ignition system thinks it's         

 running, if you accidentally start the engine,

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You have to yank off this wire to stop it!​

   

   b) You have to have 12.0 volts or higher for the electronic

ignition to work. If you don't stop right now, you have

electrical problems (battery or connections), fix them now.

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   c) If you have a test light (it's easier to use by yourself,

or you can use a DC meter). Spin the starter; if the test light

stays on with no flicker, your module is defective. As you

spin the starter, the test light should go bright then dim,

over and over. The voltage will increase and decrease on

the meter. â€‹

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  NOTE: These modules are reliable; what kills them is the cheap

   coils with a primary resistance (across the two small posts

   3 ohms or more. 

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                       Step 5: Spark is Good — Now What?

  1. Reinstall the spark plugs.
    (If you're unsure about their condition, replace them.
    They’re cheap and not worth gambling on.)

  2. Check for fuel leaks:

    • Is gasoline leaking out of the intake side of the carburetor?

    • You may need to remove the air cleaner to inspect.

    • Turn off the fuel at the tank.

  3. Remove the fuel line going into the carburetor.

    • Run about a pint of gasoline into a glass jar.

    • It should be clear, not murky.

    • Pour a few drops on the cement and light it

    • It should flare and burn brightly for a second.

    If you have doubts about the fuel:

    • Drain the tank.

    • Refill with fresh gasoline.

    • Clean the bottom of the tank using a clean cloth.

    • Leave a little gas in and reach in (or have someone with a smaller arm) through the filler neck to wipe it out.

    • Don’t be surprised by what you find.

  4. Once you’ve confirmed clean and consistent fuel flow to the carburetor, it’s time to check the carb itself.

              Is It a Carburetor Problem?

  • Does gasoline spurt out of the intake when the engine spins?
    → If so, replace the carburetor.

 

We do not rebuild most carbs. It’s labor-intensive, and parts are expensive (if you can even find them). Just buy a new one with a warranty.

  1. Still want to rebuild it?
    → Wait until you have a replacement in hand first.

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Connect the test wire

No Good! Clean the bowl and tank!

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