In two words, it works! A machine that has such a long, good history, and you can maintain it. When you have an engine (F Series Continental) with a history (97 years as of 2026), it became the standard 4-cylinder diesel engine of World War 2; millions were produced. When you have this popular engine design, any engine mechanic should be comfortable with its technology. We know its strengths and weaknesses, the design can be upgraded.
Want to Purchase a Used SA-200? Here is What you need To Know, and Pass UP
When you are looking for a used SA-200, SA250, or a SA250 diesel, you have to balance two opposing factors.
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1) How much do you want to spend on the machine?
2) How much do you want to spend on repairs and upgrades?
3) Can you do the grunge work of turning bolts and nuts, or are you going to have to pay someone to do it?
4. Can you buy anything new, you can depend on?
Starting with code number: XXXX, Lincoln Electric started producing the Octobarrel stator welders. The armature, series, shunt, adn interpole coils ar every similar. The armatures will have different size ribbon (ther is no wire on the main armature). the shunt coils will vary. With different more powerful engines you can make a 200, 250, or 300 amp welders. Great engineering, production was another matter.
The first rule in shopping for a machine is not believe anything the seller tells you. What do they know? The engine has been rebuilt. What the hell does that mean? To rebuild any machine, you replace worn parts, but what if the repair needs more than replacing parts?
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The machine has been redone. What does that mean? When someone says work has been done, show me paperwork. Any warranties? Who did what? If anyone repairs a machine, do they warrant (in writing) for the repairs made?
Repainted is not re anything! Welders (and men in general) will go for anything that is shiny or has tits!
What no one will tell you about the Octagon barrel SA200. Basically, the SA200, SA250, 3.152, Classic series, and 300 series diesels have almost identical designs. There are different armature lengths and bearings: different shunt coils, and other differences. With one design, a whole new line of machines was created, featuring more powerful engines, more torque, and higher current output.
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These units came with the "PC board" idler system, almost all Continental F-163 engines, and a different starter mounting (high mount).
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How well does the engine sound?
1. Does the engine run?​​
2. If not, is it locked up? Can you turn the engine with the starter or with the crank?​​
3. If not-engine repaired, figure 2 to 3,000 Pesos. If the engine is rebuildable, more if you need to buy a rebuildable core.​
What to look at in the engine? What will tell you you have major engine problems?
1. If the engine is clean, no oil, dirt, or worse, repainted, STOP.
2. Check the engine for leaks. Put paper. Construction works best. Place the paper under the engine past the radiator.
3. Run the engine (high speed) for one hour.
4. Check for leaks;
a) under the front pulley
b) oil dripping from the rear of the engine, between the engine and the welder stator.
c) If it leaks oil, it will cost significant dollars for engine repair. You cannot repair the rear seal without remachining the crankshaft.
d) Oil leaks behind the carburetor, most likely the side cover gasket, which is simple to repair.
e) Oil on the engine anywhere it shouldn't be.
f) Water anywhere outside the engine or radiator. Pressure test system.
g) Water pumps can be rebuilt if they are leaking.
h) New hoses and radiators are available.
i) Run a compression check 115 to 125 on all four cylinders +/- 10%.
j) Clean oil could be a problem; new oil may be a sign somebody is hiding something.
k) Any doubt about anything on the machine, take it to someone who can check it out. Pay the fee and get a written report.
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What a checkout sheet should look like; Click here
The Welder welds, what to check.
1. Weld test, start with 1/16", then 5/32", finally a 1/4" (250 amps). The big rod will bog down the engine, but it should weld.
2. In each range, the fine current control should have a full range, from low to high, with no lost arc.
3. The Course Current switch (sometimes known as the "gearshift") should move smoothly with no binding. Check it with a flashlight, no signs (or smell) of burning.
4. Remove the exciter cap; if it welds, the exciter is working. Look at the exciter coils; there is one on each side of the armature. Don't worry if the brushes are worn, as long as the springs keep them in contact with the communicator, OK. They are cheap and easy to replace. The coils in the image to the left are Lincoln OEM exciter; the only thing you have to know is that they are going to fail, they are cheap and designed to fail. They are easy to replace, and good after-market coils should last a lifetime.​
5. After welding with the machine, feel the stator housing; the whole housing should be the same temperature. If you feel a warm spot, something is not right. Have it checked.
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The Engine Runs, But Will Not Weld
The first place to check is the Auxiliary power outlet. The fastest and easiest check is to plug in a grinder (AC/DC-universal motor). If the engine idles up to weld speed and the grinder runs, the exciter is operational, and the auto idler works.
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If it does not work, there are normally only two failures. 1) The exciter coils are defective. We find that about 9 out of 10 failures are in the coils. If the coils are good, you will need to replace the exciter armature. Both are obsolete from Lincoln, but the aftermarket has taken the lead with items superior to OEM.
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Until the exciter problem is fixed, it is hard to do a final load test.
The machine will run a grinder but No Weld?
When the machine will not weld and the electrode just "sparkles" when dragged across the metal, or there is no spark, nothing! This is a big question mark. In my experience, 9 times out of 10, you have open shunt coils. If the rheostat is good, you have to expect a hefty bill,
The whole welder end has to be disassembled, repaired, and reassembled. It never goes right, broken bolts, defective wires, coil pole pieces that will not move; it never ends.
​ ----OPINION----
The only reason you have windings, armature, and coil failures is due to cheap
internal manufacturing materials and processes. They never improved their insulation procedure till the end of the production run, approximately 1992.​We can update the
original design.
1. Rewound armatures installed in our shop, with a lifetime warranty.
2. Serial and shunt coils in our shop, with a lifetime warranty.
3. Exciter windings and rewound exciter armatures, with a lifetime warranty when installed in our shop
These coils are Lincoln's original L-8707 exciter coils, now obsolete. Just looking at them, in our experience and opinion, they are designed to fail.
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Maybe it’s me, but does it seem like nobody knows anything about anything anymore? Imagine filling up your car at -10F with a 30-mile-an-hour wind blowing in your face, and then the card reader can’t read your card, followed by the printer not working. It seems to be worse by the day.
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I understand we have a critical lack of young people with practical skills. There is nothing you or I can do. This means we are all going to have to become technologically self-sufficient. I am 78 years old, and I built this website; you probably can tell. You have to be willing to fail, and fail again, knowing that success is on the other side of failure.