Weldmart Remanufactured Continental F-163 engines for Lincoln and Miller welders and other applications.
- Larry Gruner
- Oct 18
- 3 min read
Updated: Oct 25
We do not rebuild Continental F-series engines. When you restore something, you only have to replace worn parts. When you remanufacture a machine, you restore it to its original specifications. If you do your job correctly, you will improve the original machine. New improved machine techniques, materials, and new oils all lead to longer life. The old F-163 has been a mystery to me. I have seen 60-year-old engines slobbering oil and carboned up (you should have 115 to 125 pounds of compression) with 140 pounds, yet they keep running!
For how long, I don't know. Suppose you go in and remanufacture it back to new engine specs. Put the best air filter, a larger oil capacity, and service it properly, and it may outlive you!
Whomever you have redo your engine, ask them precisely what they plan to do and what their warranty covers. Get it in writing and always pay with a credit card. You can challenge the charge for up to 2 years after the payment.
Find a machine shop that has been in business for over 20 years. Nothing like a good track record, the first thing you look for. It has been my experience that factory-trained technicians can mean nothing. There is only one thing that makes a sound mechanic/technician competent: experience, knowledge, time, mistakes, successes, and learning.
We now have a generation of people with little or no life experience in anything mechanical. Your machine is being serviced by someone who has never seen one. Being a mechanic/technician is more than just replacing a part.
1. The engine block is totally disassembled and given a preliminary inspection for defects.
2. The block, head, and other parts are cleaned in a gas furnace at 700°F, and all the dirt and oil are burnt off. The internal rust in the water passages is burned and resembles sand, which is removed with high-pressure air. These parts return to their original gray cast iron color.
3. The block and head are inspected for defects and repaired or rejected.
4. The head and block are milled to ensure flatness, which is critical for proper head gasket sealing.
5. The block is bored or has steel sleeves installed. All internal parts are cleaned and inspected for defects, and any problem parts are replaced.
6. The crankshaft is turned down to accept undersized main bearing inserts. In some cases, the crankshaft is so worn that it is rebuilt by welding and then turned down to standard size and balanced if necessary (it only turns at 1500 RPMs).
The valve train parts are disassembled, inspected, and defective parts are replaced (the original parts are simple and so robust that very few faulty parts are found, the whole engine turns relatively slowly, and this slows metal-to-metal wear.
The valve seats and valves are reground and replaced if necessary with hardened valve seats.
9.  The valve springs are checked for height degradation and are replaced as necessary.
10.  The valve train is reassembled and checked for leaks.
11.  The camshaft is inspected for defects and replaced if necessary; it is reinstalled with new camshaft bearings.
12. The original oil pump is removed, cleaned, and inspected for damage and reinstalled.
13.  The crankshaft, rods, and pistons are reinstalled.
14.  The head is reinstalled and checked for proper compression and valve leakage.
15.
The oil pan, block heater, and front gear cover (with front seal installed) are reinstalled.