WELDMART UNIVERSAL IDLER UPGRADE BOARD INSTALLATION FOR MILLER BLUESTAR 2-E WELDER

Upgrade Board Kit Includes the following:

1.       Upgrade PC Board (WM-2026-M)

2.       Dielectric Grease (WM-0126)

3.       Hardware Mounting Kit (WM-2007)

4.       Weldmart Test Light (WM-0127)

5.       Weldmart Test Leads (WM-0138)

6.       Weldmart Instructions (This is what you are now reading!)

The Weldmart Universal Idler PC board is a direct upgrade replacement for the following Miller idler PC boards; 049404 (obsolete), 049443 (obsolete), and 071609 ($217.45-as of 04/14/2010).

Mount the Weldmart Idler board in place of the Miller board with the hardware, about ½ to one inch spacing is best.

MILLER BLUES STAR 2-E SCHEMATIC WITH WIRING MODIFICATIONS NOTED

WELDMART IDLER PC BOARD CONNECTIONS

1.       Connect Miller wire #8 to terminal #1 (12VDC + when machine is running)

2.       Connect Miller wire #37 to one side of the auto idle switch, the other side of the switch to terminal # 3. Wire # 37 goes to one side of the idle solenoid.

3.       Connect Miller wire #33 (12 VDC Ground) to terminal # 2

4.       Connect the two black wires, Wires #35 & #36 (auxiliary power sensing) to the Blue male connectors on the WM Pc board, these are sensing wires and there is no polarity.

NOTE: What do the LED’s tell you?

a)       LED # 2 is GREEN. As long as it is lighted the PC board has a 12 volts DC supply and a good ground. IT should never go out as long as the machine is running.

b)      LED #1 is ORANGE As long as it is lighted the machine is in “Idle-Down” mode; the solenoid is pulled in and the machine is at idle speed.

c)       LED # 3 is RED As long as it is lighted the solenoid is released and the machine is at idle.

d)      When LED #1 and #3 go off the idle board has sensed a demand to weld; the solenoid is engaged and the machine should be running at weld speed.

e)      When welding or auxiliary power is no longer required; a fifteen second delay occurs. The PC board pulls in the solenoid and the machine returns to idle speed.

TROUBLE SHOOTING THE WELDMART PC BOARD INSTALLATION

1. With a meter or trouble light you should have 12 volts DC between terminals 1 & 2, with the oil pressure switch terminals jumpered. If you do not have 12 volt across these two wires go to step 2.

2.       Is the terminal #1 getting 12 volts (+) and terminal #2 connected to a good ground connection?

a)       To check with a meter: Connect the Red (+) lead to terminal 1 (ONE) and the Black (-) to terminal 2 (two) on the PC board. The meter should read a minimum of 12 volts dc (if the meter pointer pegs to the left reverse your leads!). If you are reading less than 12.1 volts-read the voltage at the battery terminals-you could have battery problems!

b)      To check with your Test Light:  Connect the alligator clip to terminal 1 (one) and touch the probe to terminal 2 (two) on the PC board.  The light should be very bright (the level of brightness as testing across the battery posts!) If the light is “dim” check the brightness at the battery terminals-you could have battery problems! Check it with a meter (look at paragraph [a])

c)       A quick check of the sensor on the PC board can be made by jumpering terminal #5 to one of the grounding screws. Orange LED #2 and Red LED #3 will turn off and the solenoid will release (the machine will idle “UP”).

d)      If the board is good, the solenoid will pull in and stay in. If you have 12 volts coming into the PC board, a good solenoid, and proper wiring to the solenoid and the board does not release the solenoid: Replace it

3. The Unit not idle up-Quick Check of the PC Board.

To check to “Hall-Effect” cube sensor, pass a small magnet (about 1/8”) from corner to corner of the black sensor-the board will trigger and release the solenoid.

Your Welder’s 12 volt electrical System

If your battery or alternator is weak or bad, it will affect the Weldmart Idle boards’ operation. The system has to have a reliable source of 12 volts DC.

You can do a quick check to tell if it full (charged) by putting the test light across the terminals (polarity does not matter-this time). The light should glow very bright! Have someone crank the engine; the light should dim, but still be bright. If the light gets very dim or goes out this could be an indication that the battery is weak and your need to check the voltage with a meter.

                                       Here is what you should see:

a)       12.6 volts battery is fully charged (you need to check the starter)

b)      12.4 the battery is 75% Charged, after running the welder the alternator should bring it up in 20 to 30 minutes.

c)       12.2 the battery is at 50% charge.

d)      12.0 the batter is at 25% charge.

e)      11.8 the battery is at 0%, you will have to have a “jumper battery” to use the electric starter.

f)         10 volts indicated a bad cell-time for a new battery.

If you have any doubt about your engine’s electrical system and you do not feel comfortable servicing it, take to someone who can.

FYI: any good automotive mechanic should be able to service it. Any questions call us at 1-800-460-6474.

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