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HOW TO INSTALL A NEW WATER PUMP ON YOUR SA-200 PIPELINER

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How to Replace the Water Pump on a Lincoln® SA-200® Pipeliner® (F-162 or F-163) Engine-AND NOT LOSE YOUR MIND!

1. Your replacement pump should have the pulley all ready installed. If you need to remove and reinstall your pulley refer to this link for instructions.

SINGLE GROOVE PULLEY INSTALLED

2. A new pump should come with the back plate and the bypass hose nipple loose-not installed. We recommend that the water pump back plate be installed first. Paint both sided of the paper gasket with Permatex®, hang it up, and let it get “tacky”. We recommend that a light coat of sealer be applied to the water pump and the backing plate. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or anything that would interfere with gasket sealing. The area in blue is where the sealer should be painted.

PERMATEX AVAITION GASKET SEALER

PERMATEX “FORM-A GASKET” “BLUE” IS SEALING AREA

3. Lay the gasket on the pump and then install the backing plate. Snug the mounting bolts (10-15 pounds of torque is all you need).

4. Install the by-pass hose nipple. Use “Teflon” tape or a Teflon based thread sealer to coat the treads. Tighten the nipple with pliers.

REMOVING THE WATER PUMP FROM THE WELDER
(You do not have to remove the radiator or fan to change the pump)
5. Drain the engine and radiator. There is no clean way to accomplish this with the SA-200. We recommend that the unit be raised up and a large bucket (five gallons) be placed under the right side (facing the radiator) of the radiator. Loosen the lower hose clamp and let the coolant drain. You may or may not be able to open the radiator pet-cock valve. If the fluid is clean-no oil or debris, it can be reused.

6. After the fluid is completely drained, remove the upper, lower, and by-pass hoses. You do this for two reasons; first to inspect the hoses and second to get them out of the way. You will be working in tight quarters-don’t make it any harder than you have to.

7. Remove the alternator adjusting arm and fan belt-replace any item if you question their condition.

TIP: If you are careful you can remove the pump without removing the fan blade-a very awkward painful procedure-be careful of your knuckles. When we do this in our shop we always have two people available-one on each side of the machine to guide the assembly out without damaging the radiator.

8. There are three mounting bolts that hold the pump onto the engine block-they require a 9/16” wrench to remove. They should be torques down to 50 foot pounds of torque. They will be tight, we recommend that you use a long handle box end wrench-tap it with a hammer to break them loose.

9. With the pump removed it is now time to clean off the original pump to block gasket. The orginal gasket must be completely removed! We use a scraper with a “sharp” edge. The block is cast iron-you won’t hurt it. You should be able to run your fingers over the area and feel nothing but a smooth surface.

10. Paint both sided of the paper gasket (shown in Blue) with Permatex®, hang it up, and let it get “tacky”. We recommend that a light coat of sealer be applied to the water pump and the backing plate. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or anything that would interfere with gasket sealing.

11. Before installing the new water pump you should clean (with a wire brush or wire wheel) the threads (and heads) of all the bolts you have removed. If there is damage to the bolts and washers-repalce them-don’t take a chance! You should be able to screw the bolts in by hand. If there is any problem-clean the bolt holes with the proper tap (3/8” x 16).

TIP: BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS-COAT THEM WITH A VERY LIGHT COAT OF PERMATEX-IT ACTS AS A LUBRICANT AND WILL PRECENT THE BOLT FROM RUSTING!

12. Remove the fan blasé from the old pump. Clean it with a wire brush and inspect for rust pits, loose rivets, cracks in the blades, and any damage to the blades. A coat of paint could not hurt!

TIP: IF YOU ARE PAINTING THE FAN BLADE PAINT A ½” STRIP ON THE END OF THE BLADE WITH RED, YELLOW, OR WHITE PAINT-IT WILL CATCH YOUR EYE AND REMIND YOU OF THE DANGER OF A SPINNING BLADE!

The orginal SA-200 had a four blade fan it has been replaced by a six blade pusher (L2649), available from Weldmart. If you decide to replace your old blade-upgrade to the six blade version.

INSTALLLING THE NEW WATER PUMP ON THE WELDER

13. We recopmmend that the pump be installed without the fan blade. If you must try to install you new pump with the blade attached, click on this link to order a new radiator: http://www.weldmart.com/store/
14. Place the gasket on the back of the water pump and hold it in position by inserting two mounting bolts thru the pump body and gasket.
15. Position the pump on the engine block and start one bolt by hand, screw it in about ¼” and then start the second bolt about ¼”, then start third bolt. There are three bolts (3/8” x 16) bolt that attached. Make sure they all screw in easily. Torque the bolts to 40-50 pounds.
16. Install the fan blade; tighten the bolts tight enough to compress the lock washers.

TIP: Torque spec: 3/8-16 & 3/8-24 — 40-50 ft-lbs & 7/16-14 — 55-65 ft-lbs & 7/16-20 — 70-80 ft-lbs

17. Before you install the hoses inspect them for splits, tears, or cracks-replace them if there is any doubt.

TIP: COAT THE INSIDE OF THE HOSES (WITH THE  SAME PERMATEX YOU USED ON THE SEALING THE PUMP) BEFORE YOU INSTALL THEM. THIS WILL HELP THEM SLID ON, PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SEALING PROPERTIES, AND MAKE THEM EAST TO REMOVE FOR REPLACEMENT OR SERVICE.

18. Fill the system with water only and start the engine. Let it run for fifteen minutes. Check for leaks-fix any you find.
19. If there are no leaks; drain the system. Add five to six quarts of anti-freeze and fill with water. The system holds 10 & ½ quarts of coolant.

Tech Tip # 8 When you need a gasket-in a pinch?

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Gasket Paper

Installing a water pump and need a gasket?  No NAPA store in Podunk open on  Sunday?  Pizza and cereal boxes make excellent materials for water pump and thermostat gasket paper.  Just apply a little Permatex to each side of the cardboard and you can forget about buying rolls of gasket paper ever again

Tech Tip #7 Spark Plugs-What Nobody Told You

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Tech Tip #7 Spark Plugs-What Nobody Told You

Spark plugs are one of the most misunderstood maintenance items on your welder. Read and learn!

Removing Plugs

First, clean out the dirt around the base of the plug with compressed air to avoid it falling into the combustion chamber. Remove the old plug carefully from a cool head with a steady continuous pressure. Be careful not to use too much force which could result in stripping of threads and/or breaking the top of the plug. Once out, inspect the plug for the condition of the installation and the color of the deposits. Wet, oil soaked plugs are a sign of excessive ring wear. Black fouled plugs are a sign of too rich of mixture (have the carburator or fuel injector system checked). The plugs should have a light gray color-a sign of correct fuel/air mixture. If the present plugs are going to be re-used, carefully clean the threads (with a wire brush or wire wheel), make sure the spark gap is correct, and apply a light coat of anti-seize.

Installing the Plugs

Use a wire type spark plug gap measuring tool. Check your owner’s manual for the recommended gap and then carefully thread in the new plugs by hand. Tighten with a torque wrench to the specs given below.

Torque Recommendations
(pound-feet)
  Cylinder Head
Spark Plug Thread Size Cast Iron Aluminum
Squared shouldered, Gasket Type 8-12 8-12
10 mm 10-18 10-18
12 mm 26-30 18-22
14 mm 32-38 28-34
18 mm    
or a one quarter turn after finger tight
     
Tapered Seat    
14 mm 7-15 7-15
18 mm 15-20 15-20
or one-sixteenth of a turn after finger tight
     

Once clean, re-gapped plugs are back in, check your wires. Rubber ignition wires will deteriorate after a couple of years from exposure to heat, oil, grease, and vibration. Weldmart ignition wires will last a lifetime Weldmart ignition wire carry a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser. These wires will go a long way to enhancing engine longevity.

Tech Tip #4 How to install a new head on your welder.

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TECH TIP #4   WELDER ENGINE HEAD INSTALL TIPS

Installing a new or remanufactured cylinder head is easy if you follow this step checklist. Read the whole list before you start!

1. Check head and block for flatness with a straight edge and a feeler gauge. The maximum warp should be 004 across the blocks deck and 002 across the head.

2. While the head is loose, check the spark plug hole or injector hole threads and retap as necessary.

3. Inspect the finish of the head; if possible, borrow a friend’s profilometer to check for smoothness.

4. Run a thread chaser through each cylinder head bolt hole, blow out with compressed air and wipe all surfaces clean with a solvent.

5. Bring the Number 1 piston up to Top Dead Center (TDC) using a dial indicator. This will facilitate timing later.

6. Install the head gasket correctly, front-to-rear, and in the upright position. Align the dowel holes into the dowels.

7. Apply teflon thread sealant  or tape to any head bolts entering the water jacket. Lightly lube the other bolts with an assembly oil. (a mixture of STP and SAE 40 is as good as anything you can buy off the shelf).

8. Tighten the head bolts following the procedures as specified . (Bolts are inexpensive. We supply new bolts to most of our diesel customers who don’t know the history of their head bolts and fear they have been over tightened and stretched in the past. Some people use a gauge from Precision Measuring Service in Texas to measure the bolt stretch.)

With a clean, straight, correctly finished head now in place and sequentially torqued down, we can focus now on the remaining part of the valve train. Carefully oil the push rods, especially the tips, and insert into the head. Install the rocker arms, ensuring the rocker tips are aligned with the pushrod tips. Then adjust your rocker arms once installed.

Tech Tip #6 Perkins Diesel Engine Maintance Considerations

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Tech Tip #3 Maintenance Considerations Perkins Diesels 3.125 and 4.236 Used In Lincoln and Miller Engine Driven welders

Filters

Change the fuel and oil filters regularly. In our experience this means at least every 200 hours of industrial use and every 50 hours or at the beginning and in the middle of each season, for marine use. Fuel injectors thrive on clean dry fuel. We strongly recommend that a fuel conditioner be used.

Oil filters aren’t all alike. They vary in price, degree of micron filtration and presence of a check valve to prevent dirty oil from leaving a clogged filter and passing through the engine.

Lubrication Oil

Check the lube oil level at every use and change with the filters. We recommend a blend of synthetic and petroleum based oil, preferably a single SAE weight.

Electrical Systems

Frequently, Perkins users need to upgrade from their standard 45-55 amp alternator to a higher output unit to handle added equipment and larger batteries.  Speaking of batteries, we recommend two deep cycle golf cart batteries for four cylinder marine engines. As a cold start aid, we stock 110 volt block heaters if glow plugs or fuel pre-warmers aren’t sufficient.

The Golden Rules of Diesel Engine Longevity

1)   CLEAN AIR

2)    CLEAN DRY (NO WATER) FUEL

3)    CLEAN MOTOR OIL-

Tech Tip #2 Continental F-SERIES Ignition Timing

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CONTINENTAL F-162 & F-163 IGNITION TIMING

One of the most common questions asked on our help line concerns the ignition timing on Continental engines used on the Lincoln SA-200, SA-250, SA-300, and SA-400 welders.
Since these engines turn no faster than 1800 RPM’s, there is no need for automatic ignition advancement. Over the years we have seen distributors come through our shop with the centrifugal advancement mechanisms rusted into a solid mass of metal, but they run like a top!

Timing is important, but not as important as an engine running at higher speeds. We recommend that the engine be timed, using the vacuum method. This is simple, easy to do, and near fool-proof.On the intake manifold there is a ¼” NPT port right above the carburetor. Remove the pipe plug and attach your vacuum gauge to measure intake manifold vacuum.

Lincoln welder vacuum pressure gauge

With a tachometer measure the engine idle speed, set idle speed for approximately 700 RPM’s. By adjusting the distributor or magneto position the intake manifold vacuum pressure can be optimized. After the maximum vacuum has been achieved, a further increase in manifold vacuum can be achieved by adjusting the “air bleed” screw on the carburetor.
Lincoln welder carburetor m12484 zenith

vacuum pressure gauge

 
Note the above image shows almost 19 inches of engine vacuum. It cannot be seen in the image, bit the needle did not move!

Vacuum Gauge readings for Continental f-Series Engines (near Sea Level):

  1. 15 to 20 inches of vacuum at idle with very little needle movement means good compression, no valve problems, and no intake manifold leaks
  2. When welder goes from low idle to high idle the vacuum drops to near zero, rising very slowly, but never reaching normal running vacuum-check for worn piston rings and excessive blow by. Time to do a compression check!
  3. A low steady reading of 3 to 6 inches of vacuum-look for a major intake leak. Look for a hole or crack in the intake manifold, defective intake manifold or carburetor gasket.
  4. Idle vacuum seems “normal”, but drops off steadily in a constant manner between low and high idle operations-look for a blown head gasket, with excess smoke, engine overheating.
  5. Needle is steady at idle, then flickers up and down, 3 to 4 pounds regularly. Check for a sticking valve. The “flicker” occurs when the defective valve opens and closes.
  6. Vacuum is steady-near normal at idle, but the needle violently moves 5 to 12″ upon idle up (engine will seem to be struggling to reach weld speed) check the engine for one or more “weak” valve springs.

There are other readings and examples of engine problems that can be identified with a vacuum gauge, but these are the most common.

 

Tech Tip #1-Distributor installation idea

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When we repair or install an upgrade on a customer’s machine we endeavor to make the upgrade as “foolproof” as possible. Case in point: installation of an electronic distributor. The distributor in this case is a Prestolite.

 

Note the use of silicone to protect the electronic module wires from fraying on the mounting screw (the installation is tight). We apply enough silicone so the wire strain relief to prevent them from being accidentally pulled out-Pertronix is too cheap to make a bigger strain relief!  The Prestolite distributor does not have a rubber gasket; we suggest a thin coat of silicone to be applied to the top rim of the distributor. This should be done as the last step in the installation process.

Tech Tip #3 Fiber Gear Timing Fairbanks Morse FMX4B16 Magneto

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We get calls from frustrated welders and mechanics all the time about timing the fiber gear and steel gear inside the Fairbanks-Morse magneto.  It is much easier to R & R the points/condensor if you remove the fiber gear (and zero chance of slipping and breaking it!)  The attached image shows the timing marks and how to count the teeth if the C & A is missing off your fiber gear. FYI the fiber gear P/N: Y5939, the mating steel gear is P/N: Q5952

fairbanks morse q5952 steel gear fmx4b16 magneto y5989

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