How to Replace the Water Pump on a Lincoln® SA-200® Pipeliner® (F-162 or F-163) Engine-AND NOT LOSE YOUR MIND!
1. Your replacement pump should have the pulley all ready installed. If you need to remove and reinstall your pulley refer to this link for instructions.
2. A new pump should come with the back plate and the bypass hose nipple loose-not installed. We recommend that the water pump back plate be installed first. Paint both sided of the paper gasket with Permatex®, hang it up, and let it get “tacky”. We recommend that a light coat of sealer be applied to the water pump and the backing plate. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or anything that would interfere with gasket sealing. The area in blue is where the sealer should be painted.
PERMATEX “FORM-A GASKET” “BLUE” IS SEALING AREA
3. Lay the gasket on the pump and then install the backing plate. Snug the mounting bolts (10-15 pounds of torque is all you need).
4. Install the by-pass hose nipple. Use “Teflon” tape or a Teflon based thread sealer to coat the treads. Tighten the nipple with pliers.
REMOVING THE WATER PUMP FROM THE WELDER
(You do not have to remove the radiator or fan to change the pump)
5. Drain the engine and radiator. There is no clean way to accomplish this with the SA-200. We recommend that the unit be raised up and a large bucket (five gallons) be placed under the right side (facing the radiator) of the radiator. Loosen the lower hose clamp and let the coolant drain. You may or may not be able to open the radiator pet-cock valve. If the fluid is clean-no oil or debris, it can be reused.
6. After the fluid is completely drained, remove the upper, lower, and by-pass hoses. You do this for two reasons; first to inspect the hoses and second to get them out of the way. You will be working in tight quarters-don’t make it any harder than you have to.
7. Remove the alternator adjusting arm and fan belt-replace any item if you question their condition.
TIP: If you are careful you can remove the pump without removing the fan blade-a very awkward painful procedure-be careful of your knuckles. When we do this in our shop we always have two people available-one on each side of the machine to guide the assembly out without damaging the radiator.
8. There are three mounting bolts that hold the pump onto the engine block-they require a 9/16” wrench to remove. They should be torques down to 50 foot pounds of torque. They will be tight, we recommend that you use a long handle box end wrench-tap it with a hammer to break them loose.
9. With the pump removed it is now time to clean off the original pump to block gasket. The orginal gasket must be completely removed! We use a scraper with a “sharp” edge. The block is cast iron-you won’t hurt it. You should be able to run your fingers over the area and feel nothing but a smooth surface.
10. Paint both sided of the paper gasket (shown in Blue) with Permatex®, hang it up, and let it get “tacky”. We recommend that a light coat of sealer be applied to the water pump and the backing plate. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or anything that would interfere with gasket sealing.
11. Before installing the new water pump you should clean (with a wire brush or wire wheel) the threads (and heads) of all the bolts you have removed. If there is damage to the bolts and washers-repalce them-don’t take a chance! You should be able to screw the bolts in by hand. If there is any problem-clean the bolt holes with the proper tap (3/8” x 16).
TIP: BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS-COAT THEM WITH A VERY LIGHT COAT OF PERMATEX-IT ACTS AS A LUBRICANT AND WILL PRECENT THE BOLT FROM RUSTING!
12. Remove the fan blasé from the old pump. Clean it with a wire brush and inspect for rust pits, loose rivets, cracks in the blades, and any damage to the blades. A coat of paint could not hurt!
TIP: IF YOU ARE PAINTING THE FAN BLADE PAINT A ½” STRIP ON THE END OF THE BLADE WITH RED, YELLOW, OR WHITE PAINT-IT WILL CATCH YOUR EYE AND REMIND YOU OF THE DANGER OF A SPINNING BLADE!
The orginal SA-200 had a four blade fan it has been replaced by a six blade pusher (L2649), available from Weldmart. If you decide to replace your old blade-upgrade to the six blade version.
INSTALLLING THE NEW WATER PUMP ON THE WELDER
13. We recopmmend that the pump be installed without the fan blade. If you must try to install you new pump with the blade attached, click on this link to order a new radiator: http://www.weldmart.com/store/
14. Place the gasket on the back of the water pump and hold it in position by inserting two mounting bolts thru the pump body and gasket.
15. Position the pump on the engine block and start one bolt by hand, screw it in about ¼” and then start the second bolt about ¼”, then start third bolt. There are three bolts (3/8” x 16) bolt that attached. Make sure they all screw in easily. Torque the bolts to 40-50 pounds.
16. Install the fan blade; tighten the bolts tight enough to compress the lock washers.
TIP: Torque spec: 3/8-16 & 3/8-24 — 40-50 ft-lbs & 7/16-14 — 55-65 ft-lbs & 7/16-20 — 70-80 ft-lbs
17. Before you install the hoses inspect them for splits, tears, or cracks-replace them if there is any doubt.
TIP: COAT THE INSIDE OF THE HOSES (WITH THE SAME PERMATEX YOU USED ON THE SEALING THE PUMP) BEFORE YOU INSTALL THEM. THIS WILL HELP THEM SLID ON, PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SEALING PROPERTIES, AND MAKE THEM EAST TO REMOVE FOR REPLACEMENT OR SERVICE.
18. Fill the system with water only and start the engine. Let it run for fifteen minutes. Check for leaks-fix any you find.
19. If there are no leaks; drain the system. Add five to six quarts of anti-freeze and fill with water. The system holds 10 & ½ quarts of coolant.