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Spam Attack!

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Hello, loyal readers. Our blog comment forum was overrun by spam, so we have wiped out all past comments; if your real comments were lost in the flood of spam, we apologize.

We hope the new reCaptcha added to the blog comment form will keep this problem from happening again!

Please keep reading and sharing your comments and questions.

HOW TO INSTALL A NEW WATER PUMP ON YOUR SA-200 PIPELINER

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How to Replace the Water Pump on a Lincoln® SA-200® Pipeliner® (F-162 or F-163) Engine-AND NOT LOSE YOUR MIND!

1. Your replacement pump should have the pulley all ready installed. If you need to remove and reinstall your pulley refer to this link for instructions.

SINGLE GROOVE PULLEY INSTALLED

2. A new pump should come with the back plate and the bypass hose nipple loose-not installed. We recommend that the water pump back plate be installed first. Paint both sided of the paper gasket with Permatex®, hang it up, and let it get “tacky”. We recommend that a light coat of sealer be applied to the water pump and the backing plate. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or anything that would interfere with gasket sealing. The area in blue is where the sealer should be painted.

PERMATEX AVAITION GASKET SEALER

PERMATEX “FORM-A GASKET” “BLUE” IS SEALING AREA

3. Lay the gasket on the pump and then install the backing plate. Snug the mounting bolts (10-15 pounds of torque is all you need).

4. Install the by-pass hose nipple. Use “Teflon” tape or a Teflon based thread sealer to coat the treads. Tighten the nipple with pliers.

REMOVING THE WATER PUMP FROM THE WELDER
(You do not have to remove the radiator or fan to change the pump)
5. Drain the engine and radiator. There is no clean way to accomplish this with the SA-200. We recommend that the unit be raised up and a large bucket (five gallons) be placed under the right side (facing the radiator) of the radiator. Loosen the lower hose clamp and let the coolant drain. You may or may not be able to open the radiator pet-cock valve. If the fluid is clean-no oil or debris, it can be reused.

6. After the fluid is completely drained, remove the upper, lower, and by-pass hoses. You do this for two reasons; first to inspect the hoses and second to get them out of the way. You will be working in tight quarters-don’t make it any harder than you have to.

7. Remove the alternator adjusting arm and fan belt-replace any item if you question their condition.

TIP: If you are careful you can remove the pump without removing the fan blade-a very awkward painful procedure-be careful of your knuckles. When we do this in our shop we always have two people available-one on each side of the machine to guide the assembly out without damaging the radiator.

8. There are three mounting bolts that hold the pump onto the engine block-they require a 9/16” wrench to remove. They should be torques down to 50 foot pounds of torque. They will be tight, we recommend that you use a long handle box end wrench-tap it with a hammer to break them loose.

9. With the pump removed it is now time to clean off the original pump to block gasket. The orginal gasket must be completely removed! We use a scraper with a “sharp” edge. The block is cast iron-you won’t hurt it. You should be able to run your fingers over the area and feel nothing but a smooth surface.

10. Paint both sided of the paper gasket (shown in Blue) with Permatex®, hang it up, and let it get “tacky”. We recommend that a light coat of sealer be applied to the water pump and the backing plate. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or anything that would interfere with gasket sealing.

11. Before installing the new water pump you should clean (with a wire brush or wire wheel) the threads (and heads) of all the bolts you have removed. If there is damage to the bolts and washers-repalce them-don’t take a chance! You should be able to screw the bolts in by hand. If there is any problem-clean the bolt holes with the proper tap (3/8” x 16).

TIP: BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS-COAT THEM WITH A VERY LIGHT COAT OF PERMATEX-IT ACTS AS A LUBRICANT AND WILL PRECENT THE BOLT FROM RUSTING!

12. Remove the fan blasé from the old pump. Clean it with a wire brush and inspect for rust pits, loose rivets, cracks in the blades, and any damage to the blades. A coat of paint could not hurt!

TIP: IF YOU ARE PAINTING THE FAN BLADE PAINT A ½” STRIP ON THE END OF THE BLADE WITH RED, YELLOW, OR WHITE PAINT-IT WILL CATCH YOUR EYE AND REMIND YOU OF THE DANGER OF A SPINNING BLADE!

The orginal SA-200 had a four blade fan it has been replaced by a six blade pusher (L2649), available from Weldmart. If you decide to replace your old blade-upgrade to the six blade version.

INSTALLLING THE NEW WATER PUMP ON THE WELDER

13. We recopmmend that the pump be installed without the fan blade. If you must try to install you new pump with the blade attached, click on this link to order a new radiator: http://www.weldmart.com/store/
14. Place the gasket on the back of the water pump and hold it in position by inserting two mounting bolts thru the pump body and gasket.
15. Position the pump on the engine block and start one bolt by hand, screw it in about ¼” and then start the second bolt about ¼”, then start third bolt. There are three bolts (3/8” x 16) bolt that attached. Make sure they all screw in easily. Torque the bolts to 40-50 pounds.
16. Install the fan blade; tighten the bolts tight enough to compress the lock washers.

TIP: Torque spec: 3/8-16 & 3/8-24 — 40-50 ft-lbs & 7/16-14 — 55-65 ft-lbs & 7/16-20 — 70-80 ft-lbs

17. Before you install the hoses inspect them for splits, tears, or cracks-replace them if there is any doubt.

TIP: COAT THE INSIDE OF THE HOSES (WITH THE  SAME PERMATEX YOU USED ON THE SEALING THE PUMP) BEFORE YOU INSTALL THEM. THIS WILL HELP THEM SLID ON, PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SEALING PROPERTIES, AND MAKE THEM EAST TO REMOVE FOR REPLACEMENT OR SERVICE.

18. Fill the system with water only and start the engine. Let it run for fifteen minutes. Check for leaks-fix any you find.
19. If there are no leaks; drain the system. Add five to six quarts of anti-freeze and fill with water. The system holds 10 & ½ quarts of coolant.

TECUMSEH (610748)REPLACEMENT IGNITION MODULE

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If you have a Tecumseh “OHV110, OHV120, OHV130, OHV140, OHV180, or OHV200″ single cylinder engine; there are no replacement electronic ignition modules (Tecumseh P/N: 610748”) for these engines. These engines were used on many industrial engines because they have 1 & 1/16″, 1 & 1/8″, and 1 & 3/16” shafts. These units were used on tractors, asphalt pavers, pumps, winches, and welders.

We run into these engines on Miller Electric Roughneck welder and the Miller Bluestar 2-E welder. Miller doesn’t have a clue about these engines and they have been discontinued by Tecumseh. Unless your Tecumseh dealer has old parts on the shelf-you’re out of luck.

Weldmart offers the complete retrofit upgrade ignition kit for these engines. We stock our kit P/N: WM-0011 for the Miller Bluestar 2-E and the Miller Roughneck with the Tecumseh OHV 140 engine. If you need one for any other application except the Miller welder, please call us @ 1-800-460-6474

Tech Tip # 8 When you need a gasket-in a pinch?

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Gasket Paper

Installing a water pump and need a gasket?  No NAPA store in Podunk open on  Sunday?  Pizza and cereal boxes make excellent materials for water pump and thermostat gasket paper.  Just apply a little Permatex to each side of the cardboard and you can forget about buying rolls of gasket paper ever again

Tech Tip #5 Welder engine water pump install tips.

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How to Install a Water Pump Pulley

1. Remove the old water pump from the engine and clean the mounting surface on the engine block.

2. Thoroughly drain, flush, and reverse flush your radiator and engine block to remove all scale and rust. If necessary have the radiator cleaned, recored, or replaced.

3. If you have to install a pulley, do the following. Measure the amount of shaft sticking out of the pulley. Normally you can tell where the pulley should be on the shaft the color shaft-it’s a dead give away.

4. Carefully remove the old pulley using a gear puller (a gear puller uses bolts-not puller jaws!  (Do not try to remove the pulley with a three jaw pulley, use only a gear puller that uses the bolt holes in the pulley.)  Check the sheaves for abrasions, crack, or nicks, replace if there is doubt. 

5. Remove the back plate on the pump. Using a steel block to support the pump impeller, press the pulley back on to the pump shaft with a hydraulic press. Make sure that the pulley is pressed on to the same place as the original pulley.  

6. Install the pump on the blocks with a new gasket.  Check all hoses, fill the engine with coolant, and, while running, check for leaks.

You need to buy a new Mig-how do you choose the best machine for your purposes?

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You want to purchase a new mig machine-what you should look for.

Questions you need to answer:

  1. Will it run on 120 volts or 240 volts? Do you have three-phase power available?
  2. What is the maximum thickness of metal to need to weld in one pass? (You can weld any thickness with multiple passes)
  3. Do you require the ability to weld “thin” metal-20 gauge or less?
  4. The gun that comes with your unit is long enough and does it match the power of the welder?
  5. What is the warranty on the machine?
  6. What is the warranty on the mig gun?
  7. How is the warranty handled and who is responsible?
  8. What if you want to attach a spool gun? What will that cost?

 

Answers you to have answered:

  1. What is the maximum amperage and duty cycle of your prospective machine?

Duty Cycle refers to the ability of the machine to produce consistent amperage at a set voltage for “X” number of minutes out of a tem minute cycle.

Check out the Millermatic 180 (Stock Number 907312-Price: $1039.00 as of 04/03//11)

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00209

 

It is called a “180” and Miller says it will produce 180 amps at 30% duty cycle.  If you check the specs on the unit at 60% duty cycle the unit is rated at 80 amps!

The unit comes with a M-10 gun-ten feet long. An M-10 gun is rated at 100 amps! Why put a 100 mig gun on a 180 machine? Maybe it’s not really a 180 amp machine? Make you wonder doesn’t it?

Check out the Lincoln PowerMig180C (K2473-1) Price $774.00 (why so much cheaper than the Miller 180?). Check out this link:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2473-1

 

Lincoln calls this unit a “180” the literature says it will produce 130 amps at 30% duty cycle. They do not publish a Volt/Amp curve graph in their sales literature so we do not have any idea of how much current it will produce a 60% duty cycle.

  1. How many amps does it take to weld steel plate? This table below will give you a “rule of thumb”-it has worked for me over the years.

 

WIRE GUAGE # GUAGE = THICKNESS STARTING AMPERAGE
18 3/64”— 0.047”- 47 Amps
16 1/16”— 0.062” 62 Amps
14 5/64”— 0.078” 78 Amps
12 1/10”— 0.100” 100 Amps
10 1/8”— 0.0125” 125 Amps
8 5/32” — 0.156” 156 Amps
6 3/16” —0.187” 187 Amps

 

  1. Can your prospective machine weld 0.025 wire-ask if the 025 feed rolls are available? If you have a strong heart-get a price quote!
  2. The mig gun that comes with your machine; will it handle the maximum amperage that the unit is rated? If not how much more will the proper gun cost you? You must add this cost to purchase of your machine.
  3. Make sure you get a copy of the warranty and READ IT!!!  What is covered and what is not? What does manufacture consider warranty and what does manufacture consider warranty?  Doers you seller provide warranty on site or does the unit have to be “sent-off”. Where does it have to be sent to? What is normal turn around? After the warranty, what is warranty on repair parts? Do they have to be installed by “certified technician” to be warranted?
  4. Ditto on the your mig gun-ask all the questions listed in Line-5.
  5. Find out what spool guns the manufacture carries. Can a aftermarket spool gun be attached? If you purchase their spool gun, will it only work on this machine?

 

You are going to spend your hard earned money on a machine for your pleasure or profit. Make sure what you are offered is what you will get. If you have any questions please post them on the blog.

What New Mig Machine-Should I buy?

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            Hardly a day goes by that I don’t get a call from someone who has this question-“what mig machine should I buy? My answer is always the same: “I don’t know!” I have been hanging around this industry for almost 40 years-a lot has changed and not for the good!

Beware of anybody who gives you a fast, short, simple answer to a complex question.

Let’s start at the beginning: You want to weld steel with Mig (gas shielded metal arc)? What amperage does you machine need to produce?

The vast majority of welding wire in North America is 0.030 (0.08 mm) and 0.035 (0.09 mm) diameter. If you are into car restoration or wish to do fine Mig welding you need machine that will weld 0.025 (0.06 mm) wire; you can weld sheet metal down to 24 gauge with 025” wire!

You need a machine that will weld all three sizes of wire. How many amps does it take to weld these wires?  This table is a good “rule of thumb”.

WIRE SIZE AMPERAGE RANGE   WIRE FEED SPEED RANGE
0.023 (0.06mm) 30-90 Amps 100-400 IPM
0.030 (0.08 mm) 40-115 Amps 90-340 IPM
0.035 (0.09 mm) 50-180 Amps 80-380 IPM

 

            What thickness of steel can you weld with mig wire? The table below is a good “rule of thumb” on where to start. Just convert the wire diameter in inches to amps .100” to 100 amps!

No exact-but close enough!

WIRE GUAGE # GUAGE = THICKNESS STARTING AMPERAGE
18 3/64”— 0.047”- 47 Amps
16 1/16”— 0.062” 62 Amps
14 5/64”— 0.078” 78 Amps
12 1/10”— 0.100” 100 Amps
10 1/8”— 0.0125” 125 Amps
8 5/32” — 0.156” 156 Amps
6 3/16” —0.187” 187 Amps

 

In the next blog we will discuss what you should look for a mig machine.

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