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SA250 Idler Board Installation
Weldmart PC Idler Board Upgrade Kit


 

WELDMART UNIVERSAL WELDER IDLER UPGRADE BOARD INSTALLATION FOR LINCOLN SA-250 AC EXCITER

SA250 Idler Upgrade Installation

Upgrade Idler Board Kit Includes the following:
    1. Upgrade PC Idler Board
    2. Tube of Dielectric Grease
    3. Hardware Mounting Kit

Weldmart P/N WM2000

The Weldmart Universal Idler PC board is a direct upgrade replacement for all Lincoln PC boards used on SA-250-3152 from code number 7827 thru 9605.

The Weldmart Universal Idler PC board replaces all Lincoln PC board for these code numbers. It mounts in the same place with the same holes as the original PC board.

With the PC board is hardware to mount the PC board; It is important that the hole in the front panel are clean (bare metal); remove any and all paint and rust. Coat the clean surface with a small amount of Dielectric grease that comes in the kit. The biggest problem we have with the idler kit is poor or missing grounds. The PC board is grounded through the two mounting holes and through terminal #2. Two #8 x 1 ½"" machine screws are included, insert the screws thru the holes and secure with the star lock washer and the nuts. Mount the second bolt on the screws add another lock washer. Coat the pads on both sides of the PC Idler board with a small amount of Dielectric grease. The board mounts on the bolts with star washers on both sides of the PC board. Do not over tighten-tight enough that the washers make an impression in the solder pad.

NOTE: The back of the board cannot come into contact with the front panel of the welder!

The use of the star washers and the Dielectric grease assures a good secure mechanical and electrical ground connection. NOTE: the sequence of the lock washers!

　

SA250 Idler Kit Hardware

　

LINCOLN STYLE PC BOARD LEAD CONNECTION

Wiring Diagram for SA250 Idler Board

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Wiring Diagram for SA250 Idler Board

    1. Connect YELLOW (12 VOLTS from idler switch) wire to terminal #1
    2. Connect WHITE wire (from solenoid) to terminal #4
    3. Connect the RED wire (from the Reed-Switch) to terminal #5
    4. Connect the two BLUE wires (auxiliary power sensing) to the Blue male terminals
    5. The PC board gets it’s "Ground" through the mounting bolts

NOTE: What do the LED’s tell you?
    1. LED # 2 is GREEN. As long as it is lighted the PC board has a 12 volts DC supply and a good ground. IT should never go out as long as the machine is running.
    2. LED #1 is ORANGE As long as it is lighted the machine is in "Idle-Down" mode; the solenoid is pulled in and the machine is at idle speed.
    3. LED # 3 is RED As long as it is lighted the solenoid is pulled in and the machine is at idle.
    4. When LED #1 and #3 go off the idle board has sensed a demand to weld; the solenoid has released and the machine should be running at weld speed.
    5. When welding or auxiliary power is no longer required; a fifteen second delay occurs. The PC board pulls in the solenoid and the machine returns to idle speed.

TROUBLE SHOOTING THE WELDMART PC BOARD INSTALLATION

1. With a meter or trouble light you should have 12 volts DC between terminals 1 & 2, with the oil pressure switch terminals jumpered. If you do not have 12 volt across these two wires go to step 2.
      1. Is the terminal #1 getting 12 volts (+) and terminal #2 connected to a good ground connection?
    1. To check with a meter: Connect the Red (+) lead to terminal 1 (ONE) and the Black (-) to terminal 2 (two) on the PC board. The meter should read a minimum of 12 volts dc (if the meter pointer pegs to the left reverse your leads!). If you are reading less than 12.1 volts-read the voltage at the battery terminals-you could have battery problems!
    2. To check with your Test Light: Connect the alligator clip to terminal 1 (one) and touch the probe to terminal 2 (two) on the PC board. The light should be very bright (the level of brightness as testing across the battery posts!) If the light is "dim" check the brightness at the battery terminals-you could have battery problems! Check it with a meter (look at paragraph [a])
    3. Check the ground connection; the PC board grounds thru the mounting screws. If further ground connection is needed an additional wire can be attached to terminal #2 to the negative side of the battery.
    4. A quick check of the sensor on the PC board can be made by jumpering terminal #5 to one of the grounding screws. Orange LED #2 and Red LED #3 will turn off and the solenoid will release (the machine will idle "UP").
    5. If the board is good, the solenoid will pull in and stay in. If you have 12 volts coming into the PC board, a good solenoid, and proper wiring to the solenoid and the board does not release the solenoid: Replace it.

3. The Unit Will Not Idle "UP" When an auxiliary power is required.

If the welder idles up OK for welding but not for auxiliary power, there can be only one problem. The whole auxiliary power flows through the sensor wire from the generator to the auxiliary power outlet. To check to "Hall-Effect" cube sensor, pass a small magnet (about 1/8") from corner to corner of the black sensor-the board will trigger and release the solenoid.

Your Welder’s 12 volt electrical System

If your battery or alternator is weak or bad, it will affect the Weldmart Idle boards’ operation. The system has to have a reliable source of 12 volts DC.

You can do a quick check to tell if it full (charged) by putting the test light across the terminals (polarity does not matter-this time). The light should glow very bright! Have someone crank the engine; the light should dim, but still be bright. If the light gets very dim or goes out this could be an indication that the battery is weak and your need to check the voltage with a meter.

Here is what you should see:
    1. 12.6 volts battery is fully charged (you need to check the starter)
    2. 12.4 the battery is 75% Charged, after running the welder the alternator should bring it up in 20 to 30 minutes.
    3. 12.2 the battery is at 50% charge.
    4. 12.0 the batter is at 25% charge.
    5. 11.8 the battery is at 0%, you will have to have a "jumper battery" to use the electric starter.
    6. 10 volts indicated a bad cell-time for a new battery.

If you have any doubt about your engine’s electrical system and you do not feel comfortable servicing it, take to someone who can.

FYI: any good automotive mechanic should be able to service it. Any questions call us at 1-800-460-6474.

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